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New York Men’s Day, the twice-yearly showcase assembled by Agentry PR and staged during NYFW, returned to Hudson Yards on Friday, taking over three floors of an industrial building. Men’s Day has become a tightly edited but worthwhile stateside alternative to international menswear fashion weeks, and this season, there were 12 designers in the mix, making menswear, genderless, and even a bit of womenswear.
This season’s sponsors, Canadian powerhouse Nobis Outerwear and menswear label Cross Eyed Moose, represented the more functional side of menswear with strong outerwear proposals, tactical detailing, and outdoor camos and heatmap prints—call it “Gorpcore,” if you really need to. Raleigh Workshop brought in texture with patchwork and distressed denim applied to casual and relaxed tailored silhouettes, as did Kent Anthony with intricate rope patterns applied to soft tailoring, while Stephen Mikhail’s Atelier Cillian focused on a slim and sleek look grounded mostly in black—the label’s softly draped tops were standouts. Black was, in fact, a dominant color at the showcase. A.Potts’s Aaron Potts cut most of his genderless collection in black, as did Julian Medina of Dionysus.
Terry Singh returned to Men’s Day for fall, once again foregoing trousers in favor of pleated skirts paired with tailored jackets, all cut in an array of playful suitings. A certain liveliness also came across in the work of Burkindy and Marusya Tamboura of the 2017 LVMH Prize finalist Jahnkoy, who merged colorful traditional textiles with contemporary silhouettes. Occupying the same whimsical space were newcomer Jimmy Alexander of All Beneath Heaven, who worked with hand-drawn prints and metal and glass embroideries; menswear designer Nicholas Raefski, who created a lineup based on his heroes John Lennon, Tiger Woods, and Freddie Mercury; and the exciting new talent of Beam Rachapol Ngaongam of knitwear label Bulan, who presented a captivating first collection at the showcase.
Beam Rachapol Ngaongam of Bulan knitted most of the pieces from his collection himself.
This collection took him over a year to develop.
Bulan officially launched this season. The designer said he would likely show only once a year.
The whimsical world of All Beneath Heaven.
A hand shadow dove applied over an All Beneath Heaven double-breasted jacket.
Jahnkoy if officially back with this presentation at Men’s Day.
Prints and textures at Cross Eyed Moose.
Nicholas Raefski titled his fall 2023 collection “Leap of Faith.” It features some of his personal heroes, above is John Lennon.
And here is golf legend Tiger Woods.
Aaron Pott’s fall 2023 collection for A.Potts explored the chic world of black clothing, featuring red as its only color.
Stephen Mikhail titled his fall 2023 collection for Atelier Cillian “Mallevs Maleficarvm.”
The collection is dedicated to Mikhail’s friend and muse, Jeremy Ruehlemann (05.20.95 — 01.23.23).
Rope detailing at Kent Anthony.
This softly draped jacket by Kent Anthony drew many eyes (and phone cameras).
Everyone wears the skirts in the family at Terry Singh.
The contemporary commuter at Us.
Heat map prints at us.
All black everything at Dionysus.
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